GE Refrigerator Error Codes: Meaning + How To Fix It (2023)

Does your GE refrigerator display a code you haven’t seen before?

And does it also act weird all of a sudden?

If so, it’s telling you something.

So what is it?

And what can you do to make it disappear?

Read on to discover:

• 5 GE refrigerator error codes that you should know.
• The meaning behind each of them and how to fix it at home.
• How to know if your GE refrigerator control board is damaged.
• Ways to check your door gasket, water pressure, and defrost timer.
• And so much more…

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GE refrigerator error codes

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#1: PF

What it means:

The error code “PF” stands for Power Failure.

This appears on your GE refrigerator after a sudden power outage. And also, if you had a short interruption during a heavy storm.

How to fix it:

Luckily, this is usually resolved by a force reset or ‘power cycling.’

To do this, simply:

1. Unplug your GE fridge from its power outlet.
2. Wait for about 5 minutes.
3. Put the cord back in.
4. Check if you can still see the error code or not.

Reading tip: 7 Steps To Reset Your GE Refrigerator In 25 Sec

If it didn’t work, you might have a problem with your power cord.

But before coming to a conclusion that it’s damaged, look if it’s properly plugged into the outlet.

Make sure that it’s inserted tightly.

Once you’ve checked everything from the outside and the issue still persists, only then you can consider these other possible causes:

• Faulty power cord.
• Damaged control board.

The latter can be due to the sudden power interruption. For this kind of problem, contact a repair service.

“How do you know if your refrigerator control board is bad?”

Here are some signs to look for:

• Defrosting issues.
• Your fridge isn’t cooling properly.
• A clicking sound coming from your fridge.
• The compressor is off while the fans are on.

Note: You may experience two or more of the signs above.

#2: FF

What it means:

Next, this “FF” error code can also appear after “PF.”

Why?

It’s because this means that your fridge’s interior is warmer than usual. So if you see this, check your frozen goods inside at once. 

“FF” shows up when the freezer temperature of your GE fridge is way too high for more than 2 hours.

“What may have caused this?”

• Power interruption: Your fridge is still adjusting its temperature after the outage.
• Open fridge door/s: Its doors aren’t completely shut so it can’t maintain a normal cooling temperature.

If the reason is the latter, your fridge may also beep. 

And this happens when the fridge doors are left open for about 3 minutes.

The beeping should also stop once the problem has been fixed. 

So here’s what you need to do to solve it.

How to fix it:

Start with the simplest one first.

Step 1: Check that both your fridge and freezer doors are closed tightly.

Step 2: Refrain from opening the doors many times in the meantime. This is to help your fridge cool faster.

But if the doors are closed and your fridge is still beeping… 

Step 3: Inspect the gaskets.

“What are those?”

Gaskets are the rubber strips that you see along the inner sides of your fridge doors.

They provide a tight seal so that cold air won’t come out of your unit. And also, they don’t allow the warm air from the outside to get in.

They’re exposed to stains and dirt. So over time, they can wear out and not function well.

But before you change your door seal, double-check them first. To see if they should be changed or not.

It’s because sometimes, all your door gasket needs is some cleaning.

How to check your refrigerator door seal:

1. Get a dollar bill.
2. Put it halfway into your fridge’s opening.
3. Close your fridge door/s.
4. Watch if the dollar bill stays there or slides down.

If it gets out from your fridge, they might be dirty or damaged.

If it’s the former, here’s how to clean your door gasket:

1. Get a clean soft microfiber cloth.
2. Prepare water with baking soda. (Add 2 tbsp (28.3 g) baking soda every quart of warm water.)
3. Wipe the door gasket. Make sure that the visible stains and mold are gone.
4. To clean the grooves, use a cotton swab. Or wrap a cloth around the unsharpened tip of a stick (or anything similar) to reach the narrow areas.

Read next: 15 Best Ways To Maintain Your Refrigerator (Checklist)

But if you see cracks while cleaning, you need to replace the seal.

How?

1. Unplug your GE refrigerator first for safety. (Or turn its circuit breaker off.)
2. Open your fridge.
3. Gather and push one part of the gasket to the side.
4. Insert a putty knife in the gap you’ll see between the seal and fridge to take it off.
5. Once a part of it is already detached, slowly pull the other areas to remove the whole door gasket.
6. Wipe the parts where you’ll install the new door seal.
7. Get the new door gasket.

Note: But make sure that you remove any warping made by its packaging. To do this, leave the new seals in a tub with hot water for an hour or two. Or lay it under the heat of the sun.

8. Hold it vertically – same to its position when attached to the fridge.
9. Start with the topmost part.
10. Place one of the seal’s upper corners on the fridge. (Either left or right – whichever you like.)
11. Apply pressure and push it. This is to attach the upper side of the seal firmly to your refrigerator.
12. Move to the bottom part and do step #11.
13. Once you’re done, do it also on the left and right sides of the seal.

Note: At the ends, use a plastic hammer to further secure the door gasket. Check all the sides for gaps or imperfections. If you spot any, use a blow dryer to heat the uneven parts. Do this swiftly to avoid heating your seals too much.

#3: CC

What it means:

This error code also means that your fridge temperature is above normal. So it’s warning you that your frozen food inside might get bad.

Like “FF,” “CC” also appears when your freezer is too warm for more or less than 2 hours.

However, the possible causes for this case are different.

“What are those?”

First, your fridge’s condenser coils might be dirty.

If this is the problem, they can’t let the excess heat off.

Now, this will affect the temperature inside your unit. So it displays the “CC” error message.

Second, you may have a faulty ‘start relay.’

Its job is to cool your freezer. So if this malfunctions, this error code will also appear.

Third, there might be a problem with your condenser fan motor.

This part draws air to the condenser so that it can cool your fridge. But sometimes, this could be obstructed so it fails to supply air.

Last, you may also have a damaged compressor.

I’m hoping that this isn’t the cause of your problem. Because if so, your whole unit will not cool no matter what you do.

So check if the other cooling parts are working or not. If they’re functioning, the compressor must be the culprit.

How to fix it:

If your fridge doesn’t get cold as usual, you may need to clean your condenser coils.

To check if they have to be cleaned or not:

Step 1: Unplug your GE refrigerator first.

Step 2: Move it away from the wall until you have access to its rear side. 

Then find those snake-like black-colored bars on its back or bottom. (They might also be located below the grille panel on the upper part of your fridge.)

Note: If the condenser coils are under the fridge, detach the toe guard first. Pull it off until it pops from the unit. This is so that you can access the coils better.

Those are the condenser coils. 

So if you see that they’re full of dust and dirt…

Step 3: Get a vacuum and long condenser coil cleaning brush.

Step 4: Clear up a bit of the dust using your vacuum.

Step 5: Get your long condenser coil brush to remove the debris off the coils.

Step 6: Finish it up with a thorough vacuum.

Make sure that all the dirt is removed from your coils. So you can repeat the previous steps as many times as needed.

Step 7: Wait for your refrigerator to stabilize.

Typically, it’ll take 24 hours before a fridge has fully adjusted. So check your unit again after a day.

But if the “CC” error code still appears, also check the fridge doors if they’re closed.

If nothing changes, you might need to contact a repairman to check the exact issue.

Don’t forget to check out: 15 Refrigerator Do’s And Don’ts (Avoid #7 At All Times)

#4: CI

What it means:

Now, this is an error code that prompts you to check your GE ice maker.

“But why?”

This could be due to many reasons, like:

• Jammed ice.
• Low water pressure.
• Faulty water inlet valve.
• Water filter replacement.
• Damaged ice maker unit.

How to fix it:

For jammed ice

Take a look inside your ice maker. 

See if there’s a huge clump of ice in the mold then take them out.

For low water pressure and faulty water filter

Check if the water line is connected properly to your unit.

According to the GE manual, the ideal water pressure ranges from 40 to 120 psi. So anything below it will cause your ice maker to not work properly.

You can’t determine these numbers at home.

But, you can perform a water pressure test (if you have a dispenser):

1. Grab a big measuring cup.
2. Get water from your fridge’s dispenser.
3. Fill it within 20 seconds.
4. Measure how much water you got.

If it’s less than 8 oz (237 ml), the water pressure is low.

But if the water is greater than the amount above, your water line is fine.

If your unit failed the test, here’s what you need to do next

1. Take out your water filter.
2. Put the bypass plug.
3. Do the test again.

If it passes, the water filter is the problem. And you need to replace it.

Note: Ideally, fridge water filters should be changed every 6 months. To know how you can do it at home, check the short video below:

If not, you have poor water pressure.

So check your fridge’s tubing and saddle valve. (The latter is the thing clamped onto your water pipe.) Or call your plumber to assess the problem.

#5: dE

What it means:

If you see this “dE” error code, it means that your GE fridge hasn’t defrosted properly within the day.

The system that’s responsible for it isn’t functioning. So your fridge calls for your immediate attention.

“What may have caused this issue?”

This could be due to a faulty:

• Defrost timer: This switches the defrost heater on. So if this doesn’t work, the ice build up will not melt.
• Defrost heater: This warms the coils and melts the frost. So if the timer is fine, it can also be that the heater is the problem. 
• Defrost sensor fuse: This detects the temperature of the evaporator. And when the defrost system isn’t turned off, its fuse will trip. Then the whole system won’t work anymore.

How to fix it:

First, remove the plug of your fridge from the wall outlet.

To check if the defrost timer is at fault, switch its dial to the defrost cycle.

If it works well, you should feel that the heater is turned on.

But if nothing happens for the last 30 minutes, then the timer might need to be changed. 

If the culprit is between the heater or sensor fuse, the only way to fix them is a replacement.

#BONUS: DF

What it means:

Lastly, this is connected to the error code “dE.”

It means that there’s no current that flows in your defrost system for the last 48 hours.

How to fix it:

First, check the defrost heater and thermostat.

If you have a ‘multimeter’ at home, see if there’s continuity in those parts. 

But if not, one or both of them need to be replaced. 

Then, inspect the defrost timer as well. 

Do the things I listed in error code #5. 

Set the timer switch to defrost cycle. If it turns on the defrost heater, cross this out as the possible cause.

But if it doesn’t turn on any parts after 30 minutes, it needs to be changed too.